Dryer Heat Keeper: Pump the Heat Back into Your House, Save Money on Bills!

EDIT: People keep telling me I may wind up with some significant mold issues in the near future doing this, so, I’ll warn you that “your mileage may vary” and I’ll have to keep tweaking when I flip the vent open (probably need to wait much longer than 10 minutes for sure) so that I minimize moisture output as I have had times where it was ridiculous. Also, I’ve seen some mention that this could cause a fire hazard, though, I don’t see how it’s any worse than any other dryer duct so long as you keep the lint down. Last, one commenter said NEVER to do this on a gas dryer as this could be dangerous due to CO2 fumes. I don’t have a gas dryer and have never owned one so I am ignorant of the subject. PLEASE do your research before attempting this install on your dryer!

A week or so ago I posted a video titled Save Money On Your Heating Bill for Less Than $15! which featured a simple device that you can install in the vent duct between your clothes dryer and the outside vent.

I was so excited about saving money on my heating bill that I jumped at the chance and impulse-bought this Dundas Heat Keeper Kit. It happened to show up the next day and I was about to install it when I immediately realized it wasn’t going to work THAT easily because I needed to purchase two dryer vent ducts. All these vent ducts do is connect your dryer to the duct that goes outside the house.

Anyway, I went with two five foot long ducts so that I could extend from the bottom of the dryer (where the duct outlet is) up to above the dryer where I connect it to the Dundas Heat Keeper Kit and then back down to the floor again where it connects to the outside duct. If you’ve ever messed with dryer ducts you’ll understand. I needed two because my dryer happened to connect directly to the outside duct, you, however, may be able to get away with only one additional dryer vent duct depending on what you have in your home already… pull the dryer out and look.

The setup is really simple: connect a vent duct from the dryer to the heat keeper and then connect the other end of the heat keeper using the second vent duct to the outside vent. They provided two “clamps” that were nothing more than large zip ties for connecting the dryer ducts to the heat keeper which worked well enough but I wouldn’t have called them clamps. I also had to purchase two additional 4″ metal duct clamps as well but you may not need to. Here’s what it looks like when completed:

dryer-heat-keeper-1I briefly thought about velcroing it to the cabinet above but I figured it rested well enough atop the dryer and “the boss” didn’t complain other than to say after the first time I used it “It’s not very warm!” But, in my defense, I just started using it. Later on it warmed up. Speaking of which, I also immediately turned the laundry room into a sauna as evidenced by this picture of the now fogged-up exterior door:

dryer-heat-keeper-2It just so happens I fogged-up the bathroom mirror something awful too as the master bath is adjacent to the laundry room. Anyway, the important question is: how well did it heat the house?

Well, the first test is how much warmer the house feels. I can attest that the laundry room is a virtual sauna. 😉 After a few more run-throughs I determined that I needed to let the dryer vent on “summer” mode for more than just a few minutes like the first time. Honestly, 15 minutes is probably best for me but I seem to let it go about 10 minutes otherwise I forget to switch the Heat Keeper to “winter” mode in order to send the dryer heat back into the house. The kitchen and bathroom (which are both adjacent to the laundry room) feel a slight bit warmer for sure. The rest of the house? Not so much.

The second–and likely more important test–is how much warmer the house thermostat registered. Sadly, I have yet to register more than a degree or two higher than the typical setting of about 64 degrees. You might think that’s not important but I suspect–only through my own subjective feelings, mind you–that this makes more of a difference than you might think.

Aside from some serious testing I couldn’t say for sure how much this Heat Keeper may be saving on our heating bill, but I figured I was literally venting this otherwise “lost” heat to the world and I was better off investing a bit of money to conserve heat that I was paying for anyway.

I have considered purchasing yet another duct vent, perhaps even one twenty feet in length, so that I could then direct the dryer heat into the major part of the house, specifically the kitchen but have yet to do so. Of course, my wife didn’t sound too happy about that plan so I doubt it will come to fruition. Ultimately, I’d say a $30 investment at most won’t break the bank and may be more useful than not.

Concrete Canvas Shelters: Rapidly Deployable Hardened Shelter – Just Add Water!


I’d imagine some of you who have recently served in the military may have seen these Concrete Canvas Shelters (CCS) but they’re new to me so I thought I would share them with you. In fact, it was my eldest son (he’s only 11) who pointed them out to me… no idea how he found out about them but he loves everything “military” so I’m sure he was searching YouTube.

Anyway, these CCS shelters have been around for a handful of years or so and appear to have found their way into military applications but I immediately saw how useful such a structure might be for preppers. Here’s some highlights from ConcreteCanvas.com:

“CCS have two major advantages over conventional tented shelter:

Operational: CCS enable a hardened structure from day one of an operation. They provide much better environmental protection, increased security and vastly improved medical capability.

Financial: CCS have a design life of over 10 years, whereas tents wear out rapidly and must then be replaced. CCS are a one stop solution, saving effort and cost over the lifetime of medium to long term operations.

The key to CCS is the use of inflation to create a surface that is optimized for compression loading. This allows thin walled concrete structures to be formed which are both robust and lightweight.”

Watch this video on setting one up as well as important characteristics I’ll reiterate below:

As you saw in the video, once you have the shelter where you want it, setup is relatively straightforward. Granted, you’re going to need a few things to make it happen, including the ability to lay it out flat (probably using a vehicle), a generator to run an fan in order to inflate the shelter, and water (probably under pressure) to saturate the canvas so it hardens. According to the video the shelter will be operational within 24 hours.

The video also says the shelter can be covered in “earth, sand, or snow providing an excellent thermal performance” and offers significant protection from small arms fire and fragments. In fact, I think they recommend you berm the structure to offer such protection. Beyond that, the CCS is even 100% fireproof since it’s made from some sort of ceramic. Moreover, the plastic inner is apparently a sterile environment too. Finally, it seems you can even link more than one shelter together to form an even larger structure. Now that’s cool!

They also make concrete cloth that’s not intended to be a deploy-able shelter as shown above but, rather, for other purposes. Here’s a few ways the military has utilized Concrete Canvas to harden their defensive structures, shore-up failing walls, slopes, and more (just watch the first two minutes):

Pretty cool, huh? I thought so. I never could find any pricing info… seems they want you to contact a sales rep which is code for “they’re probably expensive.” Perhaps someday they’ll be a great and affordable option for the rest of us.

Free Country Snowridge 3-in-1 Systems Jacket: My Wife Loves It Which is Why I Bought One Also!


A little over a month ago I was contacted to review the Free Country Snowridge 3-in-1 Systems Jacket. I said “sure” but had a better idea: I requested my wife to get the jacket and review it instead. This was both a good and not so good of a decision as I later realized because she now loves the jacket but her writing skills… not so good. So, I proceeded to sit down with her and help review the jacket a bit better.

If you’re unaware, a 3-in-1 jacket is essentially two jackets that can be used or combined in three ways: wear the outer midweight jacket alone for warmth and wind/water protection, wear the inner polyfilled jacket alone just for warmth, or combine them both for greatest warmth as well as wind and water protection.

This particular setup offers a wind and water resistant midweight outer jacket that is plenty warm by itself. In fact, my wife found herself wearing the outer jacket most of the time, even in relatively cold weather that hovered in the mid-40’s. She also found herself out and about during some days with a good amount of windchill and never had a problem.

The inner jacket can be worn alone if you like and would work perfectly for cold days where you don’t expect any rain as it’s plenty warm by itself. She didn’t do this, yet, but I suspect it will get plenty of use over the coming winter. And, of course, the two can be combined and I think my wife choose to do this once or twice, particularly while sitting outside all day during a recent garage sale. She got so hot (even in below 50 degree weather) that she wound up removing the inner jacket as it was too warm. That prompted me to read reviews of similar 3-in-1 Free Country jackets and that trait alone was the #1 benefit everyone cited: that the jackets were sooooo warm, even in cold Chicago and New York City winters they said.

Now, you can look for yourself but these jackets come in two different color patterns that are actually quite stylish. She opted for the black (with white and purple trim as shown) which comes with a solid purple inner jacket that’s quite pretty… if you’re a girl, that is. 😉 Heck, if it didn’t have the purple inner I probably would have “stolen” the jacket and worn it myself…. but, I gotta’ keep up the bravado… can’t be caught in any girlie colors!

As for material, I can’t say that it’s going to stand up to a bear fight but for normal everyday wear and tear it should do just fine. It seems to me that the important inner workings of the jacket functioned fine as well, including zippers, flaps, straps, and so on but I didn’t wear it (just tried it on) and found no obvious problems.

The jacket does include a removable hoodie that includes nice drawstrings to cinch the hood around your head when it’s really cold. This is a pet peeve of mine as I own a jacket that doesn’t allow you to cinch the hood down and, as such, it’s always flopping around, driving me nuts. Had I realized how annoying that would be I never would have purchased that particular jacket.

This Snowridge jacket does include two decently-sized outer pockets, though, not quite as deep as I would prefer… my wife thinks they’re fine. It also includes a smaller upper pocket for small things if you like. I would have preferred to see an inner pocket too but that’s not a big deal. Again, the “boss” didn’t seem to care. The inner polyfilled jacket does include two pockets as well. You can read the finer details about the jacket system on your own but by-and-large it’s a good jacket, especially for the price.

Last, comparing this system to the two jackets my wife regularly wears–a lightweight wind/water resistant jacket for the fall and a much thicker coat for the winter–this Free Country Snowridge 3-in-1 Systems Jacket seems to beat them both hands-down and has become my wife’s favorite very quickly. In fact, she’s already packed up her other jackets in preparation for our move.

Considering that it should make for a fine fall and winter jacket for years to come I’d say you can’t go wrong. The best part? My wife liked it so much that I wound up buying a similar Free Country 3-in-1 jacket for myself… just waiting for it to show up. 🙂

P.S. I have recently subscribed to their newsletter (you can do so at the bottom of their main page if you like) and occasionally notice flash deals and other ways to save money on their gear. In fact, I even looked for better deals on Google and Amazon for these jackets we’ve got and couldn’t find any. I think they’ve turned me into a fan.

It’s Getting Cold Outside, Are You Preparing for Winter?


[Note: I’ve updated this list and added a few more things at the end and figured I should re-post it as a healthy reminder considering it’s even worse weather right now.]

I know it’s still only technically fall outside but it’s getting down-right chilly out there! At least it is in my part of the country. And, so, I’m beginning to think about getting ready for winter. Here’s a few suggestions for you to consider, feel free to add your own in the comments section if you like. The following is in no particular order:

  1. Gather firewood – For most preppers it’s firewood or bust. If you expect to rely upon a wood-burning stove to heat your house and cook your food then ensure you have plenty. In fact, why not work to double or triple what you normally use in a winter? It’s not like wood “goes bad” and you’ll use it eventually… make your life easier and stockpile as much as you can.
  2. Insulate windows/doors – Even though our modern homes are much better insulated than those even a few decades ago, there are still plenty of ways for drafts to ruin the day. Take the time now to replace or repair leaky doors and windows… it’s an easy fix and one that will save you money in the long run.
  3. Swap out bug out bag/vehicle kit clothes/coat/gloves or mittens/boots/etc – If you don’t already keep long pants and long sleeved shirts, boots, gloves and more in your kits then swap them in now. It’s also a good time to update clothes for kids as they grow.
  4. Add blankets/sleeping bag to vehicles – Assuming you’re not interested in camping any longer then toss those sleeping bags (or blankets) into the car trunk and forget about them. Should you ever need them you’ll be glad they’re in the trunk and not the basement.
  5. Replace/check smoke alarm (and CO) batteries – Winter time is usually the time when people bring out the stuff that’s most likely to cause fires and CO poisoning. And, of course, disasters are the time when people do really dumb things like burning a charcoal grill indoors… best to at least be able to warn yourself of such troubles ASAP.
  6. Get fireplace flue cleaned/inspected – They say chimney fires are the WORST. Fortunately, they should be preventable if you choose to have your flue inspected and cleaned yearly (more if you use it A LOT). And, while you can use DIY chimney cleaning logs, I still prefer to have an actual human being look at ours.
  7. Have alternate heat sources (including fuel to run them) – This one should be a no-brainer. After all, a major tenet of prepping is to have options. The more ways you can do something, in this case keep warm, the better off you’ll be. Of course, be sure to focus on alternative heating options that make use of the most abundant fuel source in your area, be it propane or kerosene.
  8. Have HVAC system serviced/inspected – Assuming you expect to rely on your trusty HVAC system this winter then have somebody qualified ensure it’s in good working order. And, obviously, have a good backup heating plan or two.
  9. Keep vehicle gas tanks filled (rotate gasoline storage) – This is just good practice anyway but the winter time is probably the worst time to run out of gasoline if you get stuck out in the weather overnight or longer. Work to keep your vehicle’s gas tanks at half full or more at all times! And now’s a good time to rotate your stored fuel as well.
  10. Remember basic safety (no CO sources indoors, fire hazards, etc) – Again, prepping isn’t just about being ready for the “glamorous” disasters, it’s also about the more likely everyday disasters such as a kitchen fire, candle fire, or even a Christmas tree catching fire. Think about what you’re doing, don’t use stuff that might be questionable (such as a frayed extension cable), and think safety first at all times!
  11. Add shovel, sand or cat litter, snow gear, etc to vehicles – Sometimes it’s the less least glamorous of our survival supplies that’s the most needed in the winter, and that includes things like a basic shovel and supplies to get your car back on the road when the roads are working against you.
  12. Clear gutters and downspouts – You could wind up with some significant rooftop problems (and walkway problems) if your gutters and downspouts aren’t functioning properly due to blockage. Get these cleared properly so you don’t have easily-preventable problems.
  13. Bring your water barrels inside (or have a way to keep them from freezing solid) – If you keep your water barrels in a shed or even a garage you may find that they can freeze solid and cause all sorts of problems. Draining water barrels only to refill them again is no easy task but you certainly don’t want a busted barrel because the water froze and expanded. Another option would be to drain enough water from the barrels so that if/when the water does freeze it has room to expand.
  14. Stock up on ice melt or salt – Have enough of whatever it is you use to keep from slipping on slick concrete.
  15. Test run your generator – Although you really should test your generator on a regular schedule now might be a great time to ensure it actually works and that you have enough fuel, oil, etc to run it. Oh, and be sure you can find the extension cords to use it.
  16. Stockpile essentials like food and Rx medicines – Who knows why you might not be able to get to the store or fill a needed prescription but do you best to have at minimum of 30 days of these necessary supplies as winter storms have been know to cause havoc for weeks on end.

What supplies, gear, and actions would you add?

Trying My Hand at the Homemade Air Conditioner DIY – The “5 Gallon Bucket” Air Cooler

cooler-9I was fairly impressed with the Homemade Air Conditioner DIY – The “5 Gallon Bucket” Air Cooler video that I posted a week or so ago. And, while I understand there are certainly better used for precious resources such as ice and my backup power supply, I thought it would still be a fun DIY project for this weekend.

Originally, my intention was to make this short and sweet and, in fact, utilize the styrofoam insert mentioned in the How to make a Simple “Hard-Sided” Ice Chest – “5 gallon bucket” style! video but when I went to Home Depot they were out of stock… bummer.

So, while I was there I picked up a 2-gallon bucket and decided I would wing it like I normally do. Just follow along in the gallery at the bottom of the post from steps 1 through step 8…

  1. The first thing I did was to glue two scrap pieces of 2″ x 4″ to the bottom of a 5-gallon bucket so that I could create some space between the bottom of the 5-gallon bucket and the 2-gallon pail.
  2. Next, I cut off the outer edge of a 5-gallon bucket lid so that I could use it later.
  3. I then traced around the top of 2-gallon pail onto the same bucket lid used in step two above and cut that out.
  4. After allowing the glue to dry a few hours I started adding shredded paper to act as an insulation to the bottom of the 5-gallon bucket.
  5. Next I placed the 2-gallon pail inside the 5-gallon bucket, covered it with cling wrap so I wouldn’t fill it full of shredded paper, and then added shredded paper between the 5-gallon bucket and 2-gallon pail as evenly as I could. I packed it fairly tight. When finished I removed the cling wrap.
  6. Remember the lid we cut up in steps 2 and 3? Well, now it’s time to turn it upside down and begin to shove it down the bucket (it’s a tight fit) and keep shoving until it’s beyond the top of the 2-gallon pail and firmly holding the shredded paper in place. This isn’t rocket science.
  7. Now it was time to cut the vent holes. Use whatever PVC you want but I wound up commandeering an unused leg from a set of plastic shelving. Just use an appropriate hole saw and cut the PVC a little long so that you have something to work with. Officially, the distance between each pail was 1-1/4″ but I cut my PVC at 1-1/2″ which worked out fine but I think I would have cut them a bit longer (maybe 2″) if I did it over again. I thought about caulking the entire setup but haven’t bothered to do so yet.
  8.  Add ice and top with a fan as shown in the photo at the top of the post.

So, how did it work?

Well, I started with a gallon jug of ice as shown in step 8. We placed it in our room which tends to stay hotter than the rest of the house. The original temperature started at 82 degrees and dropped to about 76 degrees after an hour. I was not very happy with those results so I removed the gallon jug and substituted with a small bag of ice (about 8 pounds) which immediately felt cooler. The problem is that after an hour of using the bag of ice the temperature didn’t budge. Why? I don’t know. I am not happy. Granted, he was measuring temperature coming out of the bucket cooler (at about 45 degrees) whereas I was measuring the room temperature. Regardless, I wasn’t expecting a miracle here but I was expecting better results.

Any thoughts as to why this didn’t work for me like it did in the video?


Utilize Awnings and Canopies to Beat the Summer Heat, Now And Post-SHTF

awningThis summer I’ve become obsessed with awnings and canopies. Specifically, I’ve become obsessed with anything I can find and use to shade myself from the relentless summer heat. I do so not only because I can but also because I realize that the simple act of shading is going to be about the easiest action that I’m able to take when it comes to keeping comfortable post-SHTF.

Regrettably, we have become far too reliant on power-hungry HVAC systems to keep us happy and it will be a rude awakening when the time comes that we can no longer rely on them to keep us cool. In fact, I once looked into the cost of a solar or wind-powered system that would be big enough to power a typical HVAC unit and furnace and, believe it or not, I would have been better off moving and building an underground house!

It wasn’t that long ago when window shades, awnings, and covered porches were the norm because they understood that keeping the sun out of the house and off the person was the most efficient way to keep cool… and likely because they didn’t have power-hungry HVAC systems.

While you could certainly purchase pre-made window awnings, patio awnings, and stand-alone canopies, they can get very expensive very fast! I prefer the makeshift approach…

Thus far this summer I’ve experimented with using all sorts of supplies to shade myself, our windows, a part of the deck, and even parts of the garden, including tarps and even bed linens. I’ve tried other things that didn’t work so well, such as plastic sheeting that was too difficult to secure because it simply tore apart.

You really need something larger to work with and preferably something that is meant to be secured such as a tarp with eyelets; I’m a huge fan of tarps and suggest you have several or more on-hand in a variety of sizes. As I mentioned, I did used some old bed sheets but had a similar problem to using plastic sheeting in that once you put a hole in it they have a tendency to rip or tear. I wound up solving this problem by using two small pieces of PVC fittings that essentially created a makeshift eyelet while trapping the frayed edges of the bedsheets I used. I would assume you could do the same with plastic sheeting but I’ve yet to try it again. Regardless, tarps are the way to go here, if you ask me.

You could get elaborate and erect a structure to attach such makeshift shading to such as recreating a stand-alone canopy if you like. In addition, you could create your own window shades relatively easily by attaching a tarp with few screws to the side of your house, then use two supports (such as 2×4’s) to extend the tarp out beyond the window a few feet, and finally tie it all down like you would a tent to the ground. I’ve also considered multiple layers of shading over windows though haven’t tried it. I’m not entirely sure why I think multiple layers would work better but it may be worth further investigation.

I would assume most anything can be used as an awning if you like, from sewn-together clothing (not sure why you would want to do this) to an pool cover or even old carpeting or linoleum, for that matter. The point is to experiment whenever and wherever you can. You could wind up with a giant mess or an actual success. In fact, the knowledge you gain could prove invaluable in the future and mean the difference between relative comfort or not.

3 Tarp Shelter Designs to Know and Trust

Seeing as though we’re still knee-deep in summer, I figured it would be fun to show you what I consider three essential tarp shelters to know (or at least have an idea of) how to make. Now, I’m no boy scout and I certainly don’t spend weeks in the woods like some people I know but I do occasionally find need to make such shelters and considering that I’m choosing to rely on the idea as our primary bug out bag shelter (as opposed to an actual tent) then it behooves me to know what I’m doing. 🙂

Start with a good quality heavy-duty tarp (or a rain fly tarp); I like the 10×12 size but your needs may vary. Of course, a tarp isn’t the only supply you’ll need to make these shelters. About the only other supply you WILL need is plenty of cordage, usually 550 mil spec paracord–I would say about a hundred feet–and depending on you situation you might want either a color such as forest green to stay more hidden or bright yellow so you don’t trip over it.

You could also include some good tent stakes (not the flimsy stuff you can buy at Wally world) but usually there are plenty of things around that you can tie to or tie down with so they’re not an absolute necessity… but they do make things easier. And, of course, it’s wise to know how to tie a few basic knots so maybe a good knot book is in order too.

In no particular order of importance, here’s my three to know:

1. The A-Frame Shelter

This shelter is typically meant for one person or for snuggling if you’re so inclined. 🙂 Obviously, this shelter can keep the rain off but is also meant to shelter you from winds on one side while allowing heat from a fire on the other. This particular design provides a bit of protection from the ground as well:


And here’s a variation of the a-frame… for those times where you just cannot stand the wind (never tried it but it looks cool!). Note that it relies on a inner pole (you could use a sturdy branch, I guess) to keep the shelter up rather than a central line:


2. The Lean-To

Normally, this is done with branches and “leans” up against a tree or something solid but can also be done relatively easily and fast with a tarp as well. Obviously this is more about just keeping the rain off your head and allowing a healthy campfire rather than dealing with wind, but here’s how to do it with a tarp and some cordage:


And here’s a slight variation of the lean-to if you want a bit more room to stand up underneath:


3. The Canopy

If you need to maximize the space underneath and only need cover from the rain then consider a makeshift canopy such as this. Of all the designs this one is going to take the most cordage to support the shelter. I have seen designs, however, that utilize a strong tree branch as the middle support:


A Few Final Thoughts

First, these photos make it look easy–don’t they always?–but these shelters are never really THAT easy to make. 😉 This is particularly true with a simple tarp because they don’t tend to stretch nearly as easily as the rain fly tarps (here’s an example) that are shown in most of the photos above. Personally, I’m thinking about switching over to a rain fly tarp setup rather than a simple heavy-duty tarp but have yet to do so mostly because of cost.

Second, water collection should be on your mind here as well. Both the lean-to and canopy designs lend themselves to being modified for rainwater collection quite easily… just tie down a section to make a very defined crease and water will quickly funnel that direction.

While I know there are plenty of other makeshift shelters you can make from tarps, these are the most useful and memorable to me. Just remember to pack plenty of cordage and know a few simple knots and you’ll be set.

My Failed Passive Solar Heater Experiment (And What I Learned From It)

passive-solar-0Like most bloggers, I want to be able to show you cool things, tell you everything is wonderful, and especially share my successes. I was optimistically expected to be able to do just that today but it’s not the case. You see, it all went wrong when I decided to do my own thing and not follow what someone had proven already worked. Some people have the knack of improvisation, I do not.

The problem was that I neither wanted to spend the money nor the time to make something as permanent as these videos showed; in fact, while I’ve seen some very cool YouTube videos about passive solar heaters, some of these guys really put serious effort into their designs! I just wanted to prove it worked… now I’ve got myself wondering.

Anyway, here’s the build I came up with (I’ll explain some lessons learned later and even link to one of the videos I liked at the very end):

Steps (follows the pictures in order):

  1. Find a nice large box that was heading for the recycle bin. In the future, find a much smaller box because this needed entirely too many cans (it’s about 3′ x 3′).
  2. Fill the box full of soda cans (96 total) which doesn’t sound like much but, trust me, it was a lot of work getting that many cans together!
  3. Mark the top and bottom of the box before removing the cans and the guess (better yet, measure) where to cut holes for air to enter and exit.
  4. This is what one side (I think it’s the top) looks like when the holes are cut out. Be sure to cut them a little less than the diameter of the can lips (maybe an inch wide).
  5. Put holes in the bottom of all cans. I started off using a large screwdriver but I wanted to the hole a bit larger so I opted for a dandelion digger instead. A few taps with a hammer and then round it out a bit. BE CAREFUL: you’ll now have exposed metal which can cut you VERY easily.
  6. This is what a typical hole looks like. Not pretty but I figured it would be functional.
  7. The holes in the soda cans didn’t exactly line up with the holes in the cardboard box but I figured I wasn’t sending an astronaut into space so no big deal.
  8. Paint the cans black. What you don’t see is my *brilliant* idea to simply caulk the tops and bottoms of the cans together while they were laying in the box. It’s works but wasn’t the best use of caulking.
  9. I decided that it needed to be held together a bit better, especially where the holes in the cans met the box so I used strategic placement of packaging tape to close the gaps (which sort of worked).
  10. Cover with clear plastic and tape down. Sadly, the 3.5 mil thick plastic I used was not nearly as clear as I had remembered so it wasn’t letting much sunlight through. (Note: this step was not shown in the gallery but can be seen completed in the thumbnail picture at the start of the post.)

I was going to take some temperature readings but could neither find an appropriate thermometer for the task nor the desire because the amount of heat was minimal at best and, even worse, the amount of airflow was lackluster at best. So, I didn’t even bother.

Lessons Learned (generally follows above):

  1. I should have started like everyone else with a wood frame for sturdiness. Cardboard can get wet, is flimsy, and didn’t allow for precise alignment.
  2. Since I just wanted to prove the concept, I could have used half the number of cans and still got a good idea of what to do.
  3. I should have taken my time to properly mark and cut the holes so that I could later seal the cans directly to the frame for less airflow lost.
  4. I really need a few good metal working tools. The video below shows how the guy put three nice holes in the bottom of each can which is a lot cleaner and probably allows for quite a bit more airflow. He also cut off the tops of each can, which I did not; I really figured this would be too much removed but I guess not.
  5. I should have also choose to completely seal the tops and bottoms of cans together (as well as the cans to the frame) so that no air would be lost during heating. This was a big mistake.
  6. Cover the heater with something more durable and definitely 100% clear! Another huge mistake here. I really don’t think the “clear” plastic I used helped my cause whatsoever.


If you’re going to bother to take the time, put forth the effort, and spend the money (yes I did spend a few dollars)… then DO IT LIKE YOU MEAN IT! Or, better yet, build it like I intended to keep and use it. 🙂

Don’t make my mistakes. Follow what somebody has already proven works…

YouTube Video that was useful (there are plenty of others):

Using IBC Totes as Thermal Heat Storage

I recently wondered about how to store heat, yes, heat. Granted, typical wall insulation is fairly good at slowing down the transfer of heat (usually from your home to the outside air) but I wanted something more “passively active” if that makes any sense. Apparently, it’s a well-known concpet among interested folks that you can store heat gain in water with the express purpose of allowing that retained heat to be released when the surrounding air is colder than the water in the tank. This idea is often utilized in greenhouses to help regulate temperature when the air temperature drops drastically at night. As I had no clue how to do this, I did some research.

Though I have no plans to try it–in large part because it would be really weird to put a huge IBC tote or two in the basement and I would probably end up divorced–I wondered how effective one or two of the 275 gallon IBC totes would be at regulating the temperature of our basement. Of course, I actually have to BUY a tote to even attempt it! Anyway, I’m not about to do the math either but let’s say the basement is roughly 700 square feet or so of living space. A typical IBC tote is about a four foot cube and would fit quite nice in the middle of the basement, if you ask me.

Now, a large part of how this would work is because of relative temperatures, that is, how cold is the outside-the-house air, how warm is the basement air, how warm can the tote water get when being actively heated (by a fireplace, for example), how fast does heat transfer from the house to the outside air, and probably a few other factors I didn’t even consider. The point is that there are a whole bunch of factors at work and if I had paid more attention in Engineering school I could probably do the math but, these days, that sounds like entirely too much effort and planning. 😉

Is Water The Best Storage Medium?

The first thing I had wondered about was whether water is the best medium to use, maybe rocks or bricks would be better? Turns out water is the best option for DIY home use. Someone else posed a similar question here and following are a few excerpts of answers:

“…If you look up the “specific heat” value for those materials (a quick Internet search will find it), you will see that water has a remarkably high specific heat, much higher than nearly anything. This means it can store more heat for a given volume and would be your best choice. Another factor to consider is that convection currents in water allow heat to move around more quickly than in a solid, which is another vote for water…”

“…To compare rock and water for heat storage, you need to know the heat capacity and the density of the two materials. Comparing water to stone, it takes a little over 4kJ of energy to raise 1kg of water by 1deg C. In contrast, granite takes a little less than 1 kJ to raise 1 kg by 1 deg c. Granite is about 3 times more dense than water, so for a given volume, it still stores less than 75% of the energy of water…”

“…But there is something else to consider…. gravel weighs more than the same volume of water. A container when filled with gravel will weigh about 2.5 times more than if the same container were filled with water. So when a container that holds 1 kg of water were allowed to cool 1°C, it will release about 4000 Joules of heat (as explained above). But if you fill the same container with gravel it will weigh about 2.5 kg, so it will store (800J/kg x 2.5kg =) 2000 Joules of heat energy. This is still only about half the heat energy that the same volume of water will store…”

And if you want more numbers to verify that water is the best medium for most of us, here’s the specific heat capacity of water (and other substances) as well as the specific heat capacity of common building materials. So, the short answer is it’s water or bust for me!

How to Heat the Water?

Originally, my thought was to just set the totes in the middle of the basement and let the heat from the fireplace radiate into the water and gradually heat it that way. Apparently, there are products designed to accept passive heat, but not from the fireplace… from sunlight, such as these Sun-Lite Thermal Storage Tubes:


The problem is that they need access to sunlight to make them useful so that constraint makes their placement a concern (that is, south-facing windows only). But, seeing as though most homes are more window glass than not, you could probably make it work if you really wanted to.

Is There a Better Way?

I wanted a more active solution and happened upon two sites that explained the concept of using solar gain for heat, including to heat water. As it turns out, I would have been better off using 10 or more 55-gallon drums as heat collectors rather than one or two large IBC totes. This article on Multi Tank Heat Storage provides quite a bit of information regarding what I wanted to do and even considers how to use the system for hot, pressurized water too. It’s a long read so plan ahead.

I also found this article on DIY Solar Heat Storage Systems t0 be an interesting read. While less about thermal heat storage (the end of the article does discuss it some) there are some interesting ideas on building design and even utilizing an attached greenhouse for passive heat.

Sadly, this wasn’t quite what I was looking for. Then I remembered this video by Engineer775:

Yeah, that’s more like it! Granted, the purpose was to make hot water for bathing and the like, but why not utilize the idea for heating water that can be used as a thermal heat storage? I’d bet that over the course of the day you could get the temperature of the water inside a typical IBC tote quite hot with constant heating from a fireplace, but I’m really just speculating here.

And just to show this concept isn’t new, here’s an article from 1978 Mother Earth News titled Make Your Fireplace Work For You that’s more along the lines of what I was thinking about.

Is Water the ONLY Thermal Mass to Rely On?

The short answer is that to be most effective your entire home should utilize the thermal mass concept (in the form of other substances like concrete, brick, tile, earth, etc) to store, release, and regulate temperature changes not only at night but throughout the day. In fact, large thermal masses can be quite effective at helping to cool the surrounding area by allowing heat transfer from the air to the thermal mass (and thus cool) as well as for heat, which is what I wanted in the first place.

What Did I Learn?

I learned that I could do what I wanted–to use IBC totes to store heat–but there are far more efficient options such as using many smaller barrels (e.g., 55 gallon drums) instead and that I can either passively heat the water using sunlight if necessary as well as to actively heat the water using a heat source such as a fireplace with a little creativity mixed in.

What do you think? Useful, plausible, cost-effective? Am I missing something completely and, more importantly, has anyone tried it? I would love to hear about success stores.